If any place is defined by its coastline, it's Pembrokeshire. For 186 miles the
shore ducks and dives, wriggles and squiggles around the south-western tip of
Wales. It's not still for a minute. Soaring headlands give way to sheltered
coves, big beaches end abruptly at sheer cliffs, placid estuaries flow into
wild, west-facing seas. Another beauty of the Pembrokeshire coast is that it
will always be protected, thanks to its status as Britain's only shore-based
National Park.
Tenby is Pembrokeshire's biggest resort, yet there's noting remotely big or
brash about its personality. Pastel-shaded Georgian houses huddle around the
old quay while up above there's the medieval walled town, a maze of narrow
alleyways. And, as icing on the cake, there are no less than three top-quality
Blue Flag beaches. You may have heard that the British seaside holiday is
making a comeback: it's because of places like Tenby, Saundersfoot, Broad
Haven, St Davids, Fishguard and Newport.
A long-distance coast path runs around the entire shore. Just by walking a
short stretch you'll come to so many inspiring places. There's Manorbier's
beach-side castle, for example, birthplace of Gerald of Wales. He travelled the
country in medieval times, recording his impressions, yet was always drawn back
to Manorbier, 'the most delightful part of Pembroke . the pleasantest spot in
Wales'. Barafundle Bay, Marloes Sands and Whitesands Bay are regulars in the
elite 'best beaches' listings in newspapers, guide books and magazines, though
anyone who really knows Pembrokeshire could easily add another ten or so local
spots.
Pembrokeshire is also known as
gwlad hud a lledrith ('the land of magic
and enchantment'). It's not a description you're likely to argue with when you
explore St Davids Peninsula or the rugged, rock-bound northern coastline. St
Davids, an early Celtic Christian shrine and site of the graceful purple-stoned
cathedral founded by Wales's patron saint, is charged with a siren-like
spirituality. It's at its most palpable along the coast path around the
headland, past St Justinian's and St Non's Well, on the razor-rocked foreshore
overlooking the stormy sound and Ramsey Island.
Strumble Head above Fishguard and Dinas Head near Newport are another two of
Pembrokeshire's many magical places. Although the county is synonymous with the
sea, there are inland attractions too. The National Park's boundary takes a
detour to surround the Preseli Hills, a natural fortress to prehistoric man.
This smooth, green upland expanse, dotted with mysterious ancient sites and
dipped in Arthurian legend, was the source of the bluestones that found their
way - somehow - to Stonehenge over 150 miles away.
Explore Pembrokeshire in more detail at
www.visitpembrokeshire.com
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